Morocco was incredible — five weeks there and I feel like I only saw a tiny slice (and my arrival here in north Africa meant my sixth continent in less than 12 months! Not at all what I had planned, but my lemon pie life made it all possible).

Published stories so far:




Where to go

Tagine on the street, Moulay Idriss, Morocco.

For Boutique Travel, I included three of my favourite boutique hotels, including Dar Roumans in Fès, in this roundup Top 10 favourite boutique hotels.

And the hotels I reviewed for

And as usual, my stays are hosted by the hotels, but the opinions are my own and I do not allow the hotel to review or approve the text before it is published.

Minaret Fez Fès. Johanna Read.

4 responses to “Morocco

  1. Do I need a guide for the medina in Fez? We’ll be there in October.Thank you


    • Hi George. It depends on what you’d like to do and how comfortable you feel.

      Most guides will include shopping in their tour. If you want to shop, and particularly if you’re looking for something unique, this can be helpful. (Yes, they will take a cut of whatever price you pay).

      The Fés medina is very large and quite confusing. There are more than 9000 streets and alleyways! I used Google Maps on my phone to find my way (you don’t need wifi or a SIM card, it works on GPS). It wasn’t perfect — there are some alleys not on the map and sometimes the GPS didn’t work well in a narrow alley with high walls. But I always found where I wanted to go — eventually! I think that half the fun is getting lost and discovering thing you wouldn’t have seen otherwise.

      Keep in mind that you can’t rely on the “helpful” directions of everyone on the street. Some people want you to use them as an unofficial guide, some people think a tourist could only want a main shopping street, so will turn you back if you wander off the beaten path, some shopkeepers want to steer you toward them, and some kids just like being kids and sending you the wrong way.
      When people tell you a street is “fermé” (closed) it sometimes means the street is a deadend, sometimes that is is residential, and sometimes that it is just in the wrong direction from where they think a tourist would want to go.

      I found it useful to say that I was “just walking to look for photos”, or that I was “trying to learn the streets” when people asked what I was looking for and insisted on steering me somewhere. Wearing headphones (usually with the sound off!) also stopped most of the more aggressive shopkeepers from bothering me (not that they were a huge bother, but sometimes you just want to walk!)

      If you’re truly lost, asking a shopkeeper how to get to a gate or a main street will usually get you useful directions. I’d suggest that you choose who you ask, rather than rely on the people who approach you. Some are truly helpful, others are not. Kids will often show you the way, but they expect a tip (which isn’t helpful to encourage them to stay in school, to learn the value of money, etc etc).


  2. We liked Villa des Orangers too – great place!


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